Designer Insights Q&A
Question: I’m intrigued by the idea of a radiant heat in our bathroom floor, but is it really practical? And is it expensive?Answer: Stepping out of the shower onto a warm floor is a wonderful thing. For the last ten years I have installed radiant floor heat in all of my bathroom renovations. Some clients have been skeptical that this could provide enough warmth to be the only heating source. But the “warm as toast” feeling turns them into believers! Of course, no heating source could adequately warm a drafty space, so I also add insulation when the walls are open and replace windows with more energy efficient ones. There are two types of radiant heating systems which can be installed: electric mesh mat and hot water tubing. Briefly, hot water systems require a hot water boiler (not steam) and are best considered when overhauling the entire heating system for a home. A recent installation in a kitchen cost $5,000 to add a separate loop to the boiler and install the tubing. Installation is also simple. The 1/8″ thick mesh mat is positioned on top of the subfloor, thinset cement is smoothed over the mat, and the floor material such as ceramic tile is installed on top. After a 24-hour curing time for the tile to set, grout is applied as usual. Although laying the mat can be done as a DIY project (or at a cost of approximately $2/square foot), a licensed electrician is required to run a 20 amp dedicated line to the electrical panel box (approximate cost $200). With benefits such as comfort, energy efficiency, affordable cost and increased floor space without a radiator, electric radiant heat is the best way to heat a bathroom today. –Tracey Stephens, Allied Member, ASID
|
Question: Our living room has a lovely fireplace flanked by two tall windows that are just inches away from the edge of the mantel. We use the fireplace frequently, so I need a window treatment solution that is both beautiful and safe.Answer: When the window is too close to the firebox to safely use panels on both sides of the window, choosing a treatment that is asymmetrical. This will keep the fabric away from the fire, while beautifully framing the fireplace and the windows. A panel can be used on the side furthest from the fire, along with some type of top treatment, such as swags and jabots. A longer jabot on the side closest to the fireplace will add visual weight to compensate for the absence of a panel on that side. Another option would be to hang one panel across the window and then pull it to the outside edge with a tieback or tassel. This can be a beautiful resolution; however, a large portion of window will be covered with the drapery, which limits the amount of natural light that can come into the room. The other challenge can be the height of the windows. In many new homes, these windows have Palladian (arched) tops or they may be two stories high. By dressing the windows properly, the illusion of a well balanced wall will be created. For arched-top windows, you need to decide whether to treat the top, or just treat the lower portion and leave the arch uncovered. If you decide to dress the lower portion only, then the rules above apply. If you want to dress the arch, and the window is close to the fire, then the treatment still needs to be kept to the outside edge. One option would be to place rosettes a few inches above the molding, following the curve of the arch. The panel can then be hung from the rosettes and pulled to the outside edge with a tieback or tassel. The two-story window done with an asymmetrical swag paired with a dramatic pole can be gorgeous. A large (2” to 3”) wood rod is best so the swag can be attached to the rod. The short jabot should line up with a strong horizontal line of the window. The long side should go to the floor (puddling optional). –Nancy B.Baldwin, Allied Member, ASID
|